By Maria Lisella
Bulging masculine muscularity is not necessarily a bad thing especially if you are a city named Rome that brandishes its ancient gods, tyrants and emperors better than any city in the world. Just like ancient Rome, the resurgence of the city is still tied to the shifting tides of politics, but this time many of those changes directly benefit your clients.
There may have been a time in the not-too-distant past [25 years in Rome is like a minute anywhere else] when Rome’s energy was strangled by coughing traffic, dusty monuments, overcooked pasta [in tourist trap eateries, not in Roman homes ever], and the frustration that this fabulous city did not synch with modern times. That unease has changed.
Rome has passionately stepped up its pace to reclaim its identity as one of the world’s centers for art, culture and archeology shining more so through new excavations and discoveries. Just two months ago archeologists discovered the tomb of the ancient hero who inspired Russell Crowe’s character in the film The Gladiator.
Rome archeologist Daniela Rossi, said the discovery of the marble tomb of Marcus Nonius Macrinus that has an inscription bearing his name, was “the most important Ancient Roman monument to come to light in the past 20 to 30 years.” The tomb was found when archaeologists were investigating ruins uncovered during building work on the banks of the Tiber at Saxa Rubra, on the Via Flaminia, north of Rome.
At the same time, the Culture Ministry announced the discovery of new excavations on the Palatine Hill and an imperial villa on the Via Aurelia and a necropolis adjoining the Stadio Flaminio rugby ground. Plans are being discussed to reconstruct the tomb as the centerpiece of a “Via Flaminia Archaeological Park” that would include the House of Empress Livia, the wife of Emperor Augustus, nearby at Prima Porta.
Certainly, Italians still feel their capital’s relevance is veiled with provinciality, but it does so with an elegance that makes travelers want to join this club. There has never been a better time to visit Rome than right now, particularly in the fall, winter and spring – seasons that bring cool air, and an ease of movement no one ever feels in the dead of heat as they trek through the Forum Imperiale around the Colisseum, up the Campidoglio, seeking refuge from the sun by stepping into the cool chamber of the Pantheon and stepping out into Piazza Navona’s fountains’ mist.
Realizing its Own Strengths
In a country that switches governments faster than most of us upgrade our computers, Romans have made some smart choices in electing local politicians, especially the former journalist and Minister for Culture, Walter Veltroni, the two-term former mayor. Veltroni was in large part, responsible for turning the city’s cultural assets into accessible, well-lit and designed places to visit and revisit. His administration has prided itself on its sound finances and Rome’s resurgence as a leading European hotspot of culture and entertainment, regaining the spirit of La dolce vita after the troubled Tangentopoli era (this refers to the politically corrupt years of the 1980s followed by the mani pulite or clean hands movement that dealt this tendency a deadly blow in 1992). Stateside, Obama supporters might like to know Veltroni was among Senator Obama’s earliest backers and has been referred to as “Obama’s European counterpart.”
His administration improved Rome in several extraordinary ways. Not only are the public services better now than they were in the past; he fully realized that Rome’s greatest capital is tourism and art.
Train Station Revival
The area around the Stazione Termini or Piazza Cinquecento has also been undergoing a revival. Trees have been planted, interesting shops and boutiques opened. Rome’s new Archeological Museum forms the centerpiece of this transformation highlighted by the nearby Terme di Diocleziano and the adjacent Piazza della Republica (built by former popular mayor, Franceso Rutelli’s grandfather) all of which are rejuvenating into a chic gathering spot.
On Dec. 14 Trenitalia will sweep into the Termini with a high-speed train to rival France’s seven-year old T.G.V. The cream and red Pendolino will shrink the trip between Rome and Milan just three hours and 30 minutes. Stops are also available to Florence, Bologna and Naples will be on the same track.
The Stazione is where the 30-minute train ride from Fiumicino Airport leaves travelers so they can easily hail cabs to their hotels. The Airport Train costs 11 euros or about $13 one-way; it is the most painless ride into Rome; and it is always on time. Tickets can be purchased at the station on the day of departure or the day prior.
Inside the Termini are three floors of shops, some of which you would expect to find in an airport. Several quick eateries and quieter restaurants are also housed in the station today, which has a much safer atmosphere than it has ever had.
According to Angelo Bettoja, a fifth generation Roman and president of the Bettoja Hotel Group, whose hotels began sprouting up within five years of Italy becoming a nation, said “The Station has once again really become the crossroads and center of the city.” Bettoja’s hotels were developed to cater to business clients, but much of his current leisure-based, international clientele hops on the trains to make their pilgrimages to Florence and Venice. “Europeans are used to using the trains but so are the Japanese,” he added. Bettoja’s Mediterraneao Hotel on the corner of Via Cavour is especially suited to accommodating groups with which it was brimming last month despite economic woes in the U.S.
Bettoja Hotels has had a longstanding relationship with the arts and has teamed up with the Scuderie del Quirinale and Palazzo Esposizioni museums to promote special exhibits such as the current Giovanni Bellini retrospective at Scuderie. Together they have just released a colorfully illustrated, informative brochure, which lists all the upcoming exhibits through 2009 in both Rome venues. Call 800-783-690; www.bettojahotels.it
The Beliini exhibit will be on display at the Scuderie through Jan. 11 while the Etruscans and Bill Viola installations will remain on view through Jan. 6 at the Esposizioni.
Parks and Complexes
One of the best times to visit the Galleria Borghese is on a Sunday when the park is brimming with street musicians, families, bike riders and simply Romans at rest.
The Galleria itself is alive with Berninis and Caravggios as well as its own ceilings worth the trip alone, and is set in Cardinal Scipione’s villa on the outskirts of the city; it was among the very first institutions to regain life. Set in the Borghese Gardens (below), which also counts other museums and the Cinecaffe within its pastoral setting, the museum’s refurbishment was the subject of an exhibition at the Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles, in 2000, spurred by the Getty’s acquisition of 54 drawings related to the project. Bookings are necessary; admission is limited to 360 persons every two hours; tickets cost about $10; reductions available to students, seniors and disabled visitors. www.galleriaborghese.it
Rome’s culturescape has been further enhanced by institutions such as the Auditorium Parco della Musica by Renzo Piano, which, was built in 2002 in the area where the 1960 Olympics had been staged. Here free international concerts are scheduled with big-name artists such as McCartney and Simon & Garfunkel, and it is the setting for the Europe Music Award and “La casa del Jazz.” The complex also includes three large concert halls joined at the base by a continuous lobby while a fourth concert hall is the open-air theater recalling Greco-Roman theaters. A cafeteria is onsite for lunch and dinners.
The improvement of the road network and the new trains in the underground are other features that directly benefit both the local population and visitors alike.
Look for jazz in other venues such as the TRAMjazz, a restored tram from 1947 that has since been outfitted with a restaurant that travels through Rome from Porta Maggiore to the Celio Park and from the Colosseum to the Forum Imperiale to the sound of jazz. An evening costs about $75 per person. Call +39-339-633-4700.
Can the Ancients be Far Behind?
That does not mean that ancient Rome will ever be left behind or forgotten. Currently Rome’s most influential military and political leader, Gaius Julius Caesar, stars in an exhibit at the Chiostro del Bramante through May 3, 2009. Revered, feared, and respected the world over, Caesar’s impact is one of the most studied and glorified in history. The memory and cult of Rome’s ‘perpetual dictator’ lives on today, over 2000 years after his brutal murder. Books are still being published on his great political and military strategies, school children and university students are still taught about his phenomenal impact on the world, and the altar inside the Temple of Caesar in the Roman Forum is still adorned with flowers from visitors even today.
The Chiostro del Bramante‘s exhibit illustrates Caesar the Man by showcasing the highs and lows of his career, his adversaries and military campaigns, the Egyptian adventures (and, of course, the fateful meeting with Cleopatra) and his demise on the Ides of March. Julius Caesar: the Man the Exploits, the Myth will be exhibited through May 3, at Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace; +06-68-809-035. Reservations are not necessary and admission is about $12.
Smack in the middle of the Piazza Venezia looms what is often referred to as a huge wedding cake. Located at the top of the Monument of Victor Emmanuel II, within the Complesso del Vittoriano is the Terrace of the Chariots that re-opened to the public after almost a century offering viewers fantastic panoramic views of Rome. Visitors can reach the Terrace of the Chariots in one of the two newly-built glass and steel elevators or climb the 196 steps.
Today, the Complesso is alive with galleries and special exhibits. A recent surround sound, immersion in Pavarotti would sweep even non-opera lovers off their feet as they submerse themselves in the ongoing films of Pavarotti in a room lined with his costumes and two walls of videos featuring him teaming up with singers from Africa to America.
Another art first for Rome is the cooperation among major international art institutions such as the current one between the Fondaziione Roma and the Netherlands’ Gemäldegalerie.
Art lovers can admire a large selection of works from the world’s most important collection of 17th century Dutch and Flemish paintings, namely those of Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie, which includes masterpieces such as Rembrandt’s The Money Changer and Vermeer’s Woman with a Pearl Necklace. The exhibit, From Rembrandt to Vermeer is on view until Feb. 15 at the Fondazione Roma Museo (previously Museo del Corso), on Rome’s central thoroughfare, Via del Corso. Admission is about $11. Call +39-06-678-6209
Add to this the new housing that protects and enhances the Ara Pacis that opened in 2006. The Ara Pacis Augustae (below), a sacrificial altar that was originally housed in a building designed by Vittorio Ballio Morpurgo in 1938, primarily of concrete instead of the travertine and marble that Mussolini’s architect had requested. The building was in disrepair and the altar itself was in precarious condition so in 1996, the Comune di Roma appointed American architect Richard Meier as head of the project for a new museum. Meier’s design is a kind of architectural revival—in terms of materials — Roman travertine and glass, much more worthy of this important site.
Over the River and Out of Town
A special treat is just across the Tiber in the area known as Trastevere. Few visitors even realize this charming neighborhood is home to the second most important botanical garden in Italy. Even when flowers are not blooming, this corner of Rome is rife with herb gardens, a bamboo forest and landscaping one does not often see inside a big city.
Should visitors arrive in July, do tell them about the Noi Antri (meaning Among Us in Roman dialect) Festival that takes place for two weeks in Trastevere.
Right off the Ponte Sisto, by the way, is a wonderful hostaria with a diverse menu of Roman delights at prices that will not break the budget. For lunch with wine, two can dine for under $50. No reservations necessary during the week. Pontesisto Hostaria, Via di Ponte Sisto, 80; +39-06-588-3411.
Ostia Anticha, about 20 miles outside of Rome is another rarely visited site that will surprise and impress visitors as its remains are substantial and very accessible. Once, Ostia Anticha (right) was Rome’s access to the sea, but as it fell into disuse after the fall of Rome, it was not reused by later generations, therefore, leaving so much intact.
Additionally, a medieval part of town that is overshadowed by the Castle of Julius II is also home to small, wonderful eateries such as Ristorante Cipriano’s where a four-course lunch costs about $40 each. Via del Forno, 1. Call +039-06-563-2956.
For those staying firmly in town, just off the Via Veneto is the Rose Garden Palace Hotel, ranked as a four-star but feels like a five-star property especially when you factor in its excellent and innovative kitchen.
A meal for two with wine will cost just under $100. Part of the Epoque Hotel group, the property has a total of 57 guestrooms and is adjacent to the American Embassy. Call 866-376-7831; www.rosegardenpalace.com or www.epoquehotels.com
Actress Audrey Hepburn once said, “People, even more than things, have to be restored, renewed, revived, reclaimed, and redeemed.” Italy’s emperors, politicians and governments may come and go, and though the Roman Empire may have fallen centuries ago, the gods and goddesses have left us with an unbeatable legacy that continues to dazzle and never disappoints.
For more information on Italy, contact the Italian Government Tourist Board at 212-245-5618; 310-820-1898; or visit www.italiantourism.com
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW with Riccardo Strano North America Director for ENIT
Italy: The Power to Enchant
Riccardo Strano, North America Director for the Italian Government Tourist Board (ENIT) in New York addressed what makes Italy a perennial fand perpetual favoriteand how travel to Italy continues to provide new generations with new reasons to visit and revisit Italy.
JF: Why should travel agents send their clients to Italy?
ENIT: Art and culture, nature, food and wine, excitement and relaxation are elements that make Italy unique. In Italy everyone is welcome, high budget, low budget, single traveler, families with children, it does not matter who you are and how old you are, Italy will enchant each visitor.
JF: Any new attractions for agents to pitch to clients?
ENIT: Festivals and events are a strong attraction for American travelers. Every Italian town, big or small has its own festivals and events. Often we support the Italian regions reproducing those events and by doing so we stimulate people’s desire to experience them first-hand.
Recently, a group of folk musicians from the Region of Sardinia performed at the Town Hall in New York with “Sonos and Memoria.” Another example is the Spoleto “Festival Dei Due Mondi”, so-called because it takes place in conjunction with its twin the “Spoleto Festival USA” in Charleston,S.C. The festivals are held annually in the months of June-July in Spoleto and May-June in Charleston, featuring a vast array of concerts, opera, dance, drama and visual arts.
At its 12th Annual Gala, next February, the Boston New England Conservatory will celebrate Italy and its contributions to music, design, food and wine. Several Italian theatres will participate in this event such as the Teatro di Parma with the music of Verdi, The Sferisterio of Macerata, and Torre del Lago with Puccini.
JF: Is there any new air service to report on?
ENIT: No new names but new alliances such as Eurofly with Meridiana, Alitalia with AirOne. The alliances will lead to more connections between the U.S. and Italy; additionally, with the “Open Sky” roles, many more airlines will be flying the North Atlantic routes.
JF: What do you consider Italy’s best selling point?
ENIT: Its art and culture, food and wines, romantic venues fashion, and nature. Because the American market is demanding, evolving and always looking for new experiences, there is a tendency to seek less crowded, small destinations--where the towns are quaint, the people are friendly and shopping is more affordable.
JF: How can travel agents learn more about Italy?
ENIT: ENIT organizes presentations by Italian regions, holds press conferences and provides travel professionals with “seminars” in the U.S. and in Italy. The Italy Symposium, is conducted jointly with tour operator members of the Italian Travel Promotion Council each year.
JF: Is there a client profile you can outline?
ENIT: Americans who visit Italy are attracted by the history, the architecture, the art and the culture. Food and wine follows through as part of the Italian culture and lifestyle. American visitors are usually middle to upper class with an income starting at $38,000, are college and post-graduate educated, and has already been to Europe several times.
We distinguish visitors in two different categories: first-time visitors, who usually spend their vacation in Rome, Florence and Venice while repeat visitors want to return to explore more of regional Italy.
Visitors to our site are asked to fill a questionnaire; their answers allow us to draw a profile of the potential American visitor as well as his expectations when in Italy. In 2007 our site registered 1.8 million unique visitors; 9 million pages were opened at a rate of 2.9 per second.
JF: Has the ethnic market continued to grow and if so, are Italian Americans going off-the-beaten track?
ENIT: Yes, it is definitely a growing segment.
Young Italian- Americans are very interested in their ancestors, their cultural background and want to learn to speak the Italian language. The Italian American Committee of Education counts 40,000 students of Italian descent and of non-Italian descent frequent Italian language courses.
JF: Have they helped to open the road to such places for tour operators and mainstream travelers?
ENIT: Absolutely— many of the tour operator members of the ITPC are Italian-American and have created products to the places of their own origin beyond the three big cities that first-timers tend to visit.
JF: Can you tell us about some of your new marketing campaigns for 2009?
ENIT: We have many projects in 2009 calendar; one of which is a nationwide promotional campaign to be launched with some of the most popular television networks. Furthermore, as we have done in 2008, we are going to reach consumers through different channels of communication including that of leisure and trade publications.
JF: How many Americans visited Italy in 2007? Can you give us an estimate of traffic for 2008?
ENIT: In 2007, according to the Italian Institute of Statistics, about 5 million Americans arrived in Italy with 13.5 million overnights. In 2008, with a slow American economy, we are hoping to maintain the same figures; but I must say that the American travel professionals have talked about a decrease in the bookings between 6-8% compared to those of last year.
JF: What are the latest trends agents should know about?
ENIT: Special Interest is key: Musical and historical events, fashion shows, eco-tourism, well-being and the never ending trend of food and wines.
JF: What is the impression you would like visitors to take home after they visit?
ENIT: Italy is the dream come true, the destination you always wanted to see, the place that when you are leaving, makes you feel nostalgic and you can’t wait to return.
Contact the Italian Government Tourist Board, 212-245-5618; 310-820-1898; www.italiantourism.com