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Tuesday, 17 June 2014 12:00

The American Queen and the American Empress: Ruling America’s Rivers

Written by  Lillian Africano
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americanempressThe American Queen was born in 1995, the biggest river steamboat ever built: 418 feet long and 89 feet wide, a six deck re-creation of a classic Mississippi riverboat with 222 staterooms for a capacity of 436 guests and a crew of 160.



Re-launched in April 2012 after a $6.5 million makeover, the “new” American Queen is a Victorian beauty, her decks graced with white gingerbread trim, her grand staircase illuminated with a sparkling chandelier, upholstery refurbished, dark wood polished, and so on. Cabins have new bedding and flat-screen TVs. The River Grill restaurant and bar was created on the upper deck.

In 2013, more upgrades were made, to the J.M. White dining room and the Front Porch (buffet venue). Early in 2014, prior to her third (current) season, American Queen was once again refurbished, with new paint and coating systems, a major rehabilitation of her decks, new sound and lighting for the Grand Saloon and an added digital content management system. On the technical side, the Queen received electrical upgrades, new steam-powered “combi ovens” in the galley and a state-of-the-art combustion control system to save fuel and reduce emissions.

Today, the American Queen sails five- to 10-day cruises along the Upper Mississippi, the Lower Mississippi and the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers. All cruises begin with an overnight stay in a luxury hotel, which allows for relaxation after flights and some sightseeing.

Given the relatively small number of passengers, boarding the Queen is a stress-free experience, with refreshments available at the Front Porch Café.

Staterooms range from cozy (80 square feet) to the luxurious and spacious (500 square feet)  Promenade Deck suites. These are furnished with period antiques and have full bathrooms (tub and shower, robes and slippers); French doors that open up to the Promenade Deck, allowing for expansive river views – and creating the sense of a floating boutique hotel (or an ante-bellum mansion). All accommodations have flat screen TVs, good storage space and high-end amenities.

The public spaces are truly grand, from the soaring two-story main dining room to the well – equipped Mark Twain library (complimentary Internet) to the clubby Engine Room bar. The food, created by celebrated American chef Regina Charboneau, is superior to the cuisine served on international river cruises, a movable feast that enhances the sense of place and references her southern heritage, with such dishes as delectable beignets and Bananas Foster French Toast.

In addition to breakfast, lunch and dinner in the splendid J.M. White dining room, there are casual meals, occasional cookouts at the River Grill and a Southern Tea in the Main Deck Lounge. Meals can be prepared for special need/requests: low sodium, Gluten-free, vegetarian, Heart Smart, etc.

To work off excess calories, the Queen carries bicycles, so conscientious passengers can explore the river towns on their own. There’s also a small pool, a gym and a spa that offers body treatments.

Entertainment is rich and varied – and appropriate to the itineraries. On every cruise, a resident “riverlorian” tells tales about the towns the Queen visits along the upper and lower Mississippi and the Ohio and Tennessee rivers. In keeping with the Victorian decor, there’s calliope music (passengers have an opportunity to play), as well as sing-alongs. More extravagant entertainment (lavishly produced shows) takes place in the Grand Saloon.

Transportation for the (complimentary) shore excursions (with guides) is on colorful American Queen hop-on, hop-off coaches.

Service is friendly and gracious throughout, by an all American crew.

The American Queen Steamboat is a member of Historic Hotels of America, the official program of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

The American Empress

This classic paddlewheeler, formerly known as Empress of the North, had been laid up since 2008 when her former owner, the Majestic America Line, went bankrupt. After being purchased by the American Queen Steamboat Company from the U.S. Maritime Administration, the 223-passenger boat underwent major renovations and thoughtful refurbishments, and today she is the perfect little sister to the bigger (436-passenger) American Queen, sailing seven-night Columbia River cruises between Clarkston, Washington and Portland, Oregon between April and November.

The cabins (seven categories), like those on the Queen, are furnished in the Victorian style with upscale amenities (Keurig coffee makers, flat-screen TVs with cable, alarm clocks/iPod docks, Clarins toiletries, robes and high end bedding and linens) and private outside decks in all but seven (those have outside views). Standard rooms range from 180 to 225 square feet; suites are 310 square feet and luxury suites measure 410 square feet – all spacious, though the bathrooms are small. Complimentary Wi-Fi is available.

The stunning art throughout the hallways and public areas features Russian treasures (including Faberge eggs), Native American pieces and historical items relating to Lewis and Clark and the Gold Rush era.

Dining is a highlight on any luxury cruise, and the food on the Empress (as it is on the Queen) is outstanding -- skillfully prepared, fresh and locally sourced from the Pacific Northwest whenever possible. Breakfast choices include steel cut oatmeal, pancakes or French toast, various egg dishes, breakfast meats, fresh fruit and juices. Lunch starts with soup or salad and often features regional fish (salmon is a favorite), a sandwich and a vegetarian dish. Desserts are exceptional; pastries especially shine.

The atmosphere at dinner is like that at a fine restaurant, with the kind of choices found at upscale places: good steaks, fish and well-crafted vegetarian options like mushroom risotto. Regional wines from Oregon and Washington and beer (including local craft beers) are complimentary at lunch and dinner. Also complimentary: regional wine tastings during the cruise, as well as wine tastings and pairings at dinner.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the inviting Astoria dining room. The alternate dining venue, the River Grill & Bar, serves breakfast and lunch along with drop-dead views. In the evening, at no extra charge (reservations required), a menu worthy of a top steakhouse is served. A typical meal included starters of Smoked Pacific Salmon, Washington State Dungeness Crab and a Beggars Purse. Salad choices: the classic Iceberg Wedge or a Hand Tossed Caesar. Entrée choices: Filet Mignon, Lobster Tail, Char Grilled Salmon, Grilled Double Lamb Chop and Cast Iron Vegetable.

As exceptional as the food is, the itinerary plays a major part in this Pacific Northwest cruise. Each morning a trio of decorated (with images of the American Queen and her passengers) motor coaches (guides onboard) is available for complimentary Hop On/Hop Off explorations, with all admissions included, of the ports.

At The Dalles, for example, an important stop is the multi-media, interactive Columbia Gorge Discovery Museum, with exhibits that detailed the science and geology of the area from the Ice Age forward; American Indian artifacts; the Lewis & Clark explorations; the history of the Oregon Trail, plus a bonus: rescued raptors, such as osprey, hawks and kestrel. Also included on the bus itinerary: the Original Courthouse Museum; the 1856 Fort Dales Museum and the Sunshine Mills Winery, which has been featured on ABC’s The Shark Tank and where Empress guests can sample the wines.

After lunch, fee-based premium tours are available. My favorite was the Multhomah Falls and Crown Point tour offered in Port Stevenson, Washington. This took me along The Scenic Highway and to some of the most achingly beautiful scenery I have ever experienced:the Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint, the Vista House on Crown Point and to Multhomah Falls, the highest falls in the state.

Complimentary bicycles and area maps are available for guests who wish to explore the port independently.

Onboard, as is the practice on the Queen, “riverlorians” give scheduled talks on anything and everything related to the cruise itinerary and history of the region; this might include demonstrations of Native American crafts, Lewis and Clark or legends and lore.

Music, dancing and the occasional comedian are part of the evening entertainment in the Showroom. A less formal alternative: a relaxing evening and a post-dinner drink in the Paddlewheel Lounge, an attractive space where passengers can watch the mighty paddlewheel turn, read one of the selections in the library or check email on one of the four provided computers.

Since a trip without shopping is like a day without sunshine for some travelers, the boat does have a small, thoughtfully stocked shop, which sells souvenirs, logo sportswear, fashion accessories and a large selection of stylish and moderately priced jewelry.

The American Empress provides a unique travel experience, the opportunity to sail one of America’s most scenic rivers on one of America’s treasures, an authentic paddlewheeler. History buffs and lovers of Americana will love this cruise, which is also a good choice for multi-generational travel (though not for small children). The service, by the American crew is impeccable and very personal, and the element of “luxury” is evident in the care given to passenger comfort and enjoyment.

Prices for both riverboats are in line with, sometimes lower than, prices on other riverboats. They include the pre-cruise hotel stay, transfers to the boat, shore excursions, Internet, beer and wine with dinner, bottled water, soft drinks, coffee (including cappuccino and espresso) and tea all day. (The American crews are paid American wages, with benefits.)


Read 6906 times Last modified on Tuesday, 17 June 2014 12:50
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